An Italo-German-British Christmas

One of the problems of international families, in addition to the obvious one of living in different countries, is combining national and family traditions, for example at Christmas. 

In our case one of the main dilemmas is establishing when Christmas actually begins and when is it appropriate to wish someone a Happy Christmas?

These may seem like simple questions, but after years of discussion we're still nowhere near finding an answer that satisfies us all.

The German side of the family believes that Christmas begins at some point on the afternoon/evening of the 24th of December. It's not clear when exactly, but over the years I have learnt not to wait until the 25th to wish my husband a Merry Christmas. The answer would be: "That was yesterday".

While the Italian and British sides of the family also celebrate Christmas Eve (on the 24th), their Christmas is actually on the 25th.

The other problem is deciding when to exchange gifts and who brings the gifts.

Is it Nikolaus, is it the Christkind, is it Father Christmas, is it Babbo Natale, or perhaps the Befana?

I've managed to convince my husband that opening the presents on the morning of the 25th makes more sense than on the evening of the 24th, especially if you're four years old and get very excited about Christmas. I'm not sure that my mother-in-law was persuaded though... I noticed that she didn't put any presents under the tree.

On the positive side, we did have a rather large variety of Christmas desserts: Italian Panettone, German Stollen and British Mince Pies, Christmas Cake and Christmas pudding. 

By the time we got to the 26th of December (Boxing Day in the UK or Santo Stefano in Italy), I thought it was safe to say that Christmas was over. But, no I was wrong, the German side was quick to point out that the 26th is called the second day of Christmas in Germany. But wasn't Christmas on the 24th? Oh well we've got another 360 days or so to work that out. Until then Happy New Year! Buon Anno! Frohes Neues Jahr!

There is only one response

I was at home in Berlin yesterday evening. My son hadn't been feeling well all day and I'd just finished putting him to bed. I finally sat down to check my emails: one from Amnesty International about the evacuation of East Aleppo caught my attention. So I turned on Twitter to send a tweet about Aleppo and I happened to notice a tweet about a truck seen driving into a Christmas market by the Gedächtniskirche, the memorial church in the centre of West Berlin.

My first reaction was: "It must have been an accident". I couldn't believe in an attack, but as more news emerged and the WhatsApp messages from anxious friends and family arrived, the reality started to sink in.

After the recent attacks in Paris, Brussels, Nice, etc. an attack in Berlin wasn't totally unexpected. Nevertheless, it was shocking and I'm still struggling to believe it really happened.

Berlin is a welcoming and tolerant city. It's the city of artists, free thinkers, LGBTQ+, liberals... everyone is accepted in Berlin. I've never felt like a foreigner since I moved here. As far as I can tell, it's trying its best to be a welcoming city for refugees. I know so many people who help or have helped in refugee centres here. 

So the day after this awful, cowardly, horrific act there is only one possible response: Berlin must remain a free, welcoming and tolerant city. It must remain a haven for artists, free thinkers, LGBTQ+, liberals, refugees. Those who have criticised Angela Merkel for welcoming refugees in Germany and who are blaming her for this vile attack should be ashamed of themselves.

Today we are all Berlin.

Advent - Berlin style

Advent in Germany is a special time. 

It's the time of the year for lighting candles on the Adventskranz (advent wreath), for baking Plätzchen (cookies), for drinking Glühwein (mulled wine) and heading to the Weihnachstmarkt (Christmas market).

If you're looking for traditional-style Christmas markets in Berlin, the ones at Gendarmenmarkt and Schloss Charlottenburg are worth seeing.

However, if you're looking for a more "Berlin" experience then head to one of the alternative Christmas markets. Always hosted in amazing locations, with tasty quality street food (pulled pork anyone?) and DJs, you'll find lots of original gifts: pictures, clothes, jewellery, handbags, lampshades, works of art (and much more) made by local designers and often sold at bargain prices. Don't expect pretty candles, traditional Christmas decorations, felt hats, Christmas carols, Bratwurst, Kartoffelpuffer (fried potato cakes) and the Christmas traditional market fare. 

Holy Shit Shopping - for one weekend only (3rd-4th December), but if you missed the one in Berlin you could still try Stuttgart or Hamburg. The location for this well-established indoor designer market this year was the former power station Kraftwerk Berlin.  

Weihnachtsrodeo - on the weekends of 10th-11th & 17th-18th December. The location this year is Postbahnhof am Ostbahnhof. Expect plenty of designer stalls, yummy street food, hip music and of course hipsters.

Holy Heimat - open from Thursday to Sunday during the entire advent season, this alternative Christmas market offers both indoor and outdoor attractions. 
The location is Haubentaucher (RAW Gelände) in Friedrichshain. As well as street food and designer pieces, there is also an ice skating rink, kid's wonderland and live music.  

For a non-shopping experience, head to the Christmas Garden Berlin at the Botanical Garden in Steglitz between 5 pm and 10 pm for a magical after-dark walk in a beautifully lit park. There is also an ice-skating rink.

Whatever you do, avoid Alexanderplatz at all costs. It's a tourist trap and possibly the ugliest place in Berlin.

The Italian Referendum

The year 2016 will be marked by three important referendums. First there was Brexit in the UK, then there was the Colombian referendum (in which voters rejected a peace deal with the Farc) and now it's the turn of the Italian referendum.

On Sunday 4th of December millions of Italians will be called to the polls to vote yes or no. The question: do you approve the following changes to the constitution - overcoming perfect bicameralism, reducing the number of MPs, reducing costs, eliminating a public entity and modifying the section concerning regions, provinces and municipalities? 
I'm not going to go into the technical details, as it's all rather complicated unless you're a constitutional expert. I also won't say which way I voted (as an Italian abroad I've already voted by post).

What troubles me is the meaning that has been attributed to this referendum and the stakes involved.

This was (and supposedly still is) a referendum about whether to change the Italian constitution. On the one hand, the yes camp argue that these changes are necessary and that they will lead to real progress. On the other hand, the no camp argue that the constitution is not the problem and that the proposed new text is confusing and badly written.

However, this referendum is being seen by many as a test for prime minister Renzi's government. It is also seen in the context of a growing anti-establishment trend, which started with Brexit and was reinforced by the election of Donald Trump in the US presidential election. All sorts of doomsday scenarios are being painted: a no vote could destabilise the country's economy, spark another banking crisis and eventually threaten the survival of the Eurozone. 

Of course, Renzi is partly to blame for this. Like Cameron with Brexit, Renzi turned the referendum into a personal matter when he announced that he would stand down if yes did not win. He later seemed to realise his mistake and backtracked, only to change his mind again: if no wins, he will resign - or so he says. Unlike other politicians, Italian politicians have a history of holding onto power till the bitter end.

According to the Financial Times, a no vote could lead to Italy leaving the euro and to the failure of up to eight Italian banks.

The Economist, meanwhile, is sending slightly mixed messages, with one article titled "Why Italy should vote no in its referendum. The country needs far-reaching reforms, just not the ones on offer". In another article the Economist warns that "the risk ((of a no vote)) is not so much instability as immobility: that months, even years, will be spent on yet more wrangling over the mechanics of politics and that Italy will not get the reforms it needs".   

German finance ministre Schaueble hopes that Renzi will be successful and said that he would vote for him. The point, however, is that this is not a vote for or against Renzi.

Whatever the press and the politicians may say, however catastrophic the consequences may or may not be, the yes or no vote is not a judgement on the government and it is not about whether to leave the EU or the Eurozone. This is a referendum about the constitution. Nobody really knows what will happen. If no wins, as the polls predict, the consequences may not be as dramatic as some suggest. To cite the Economist again: "If, though, a lost referendum really were to trigger the collapse of the euro, then it would be a sign that the single currency was so fragile that its destruction was only a matter of time".

Saint Martin's Day: a German tradition for children

November 11 is marked across many parts of the world as Armistice Day, Remembrance Day or Veterans Day to recall the end of hostilities of the 1st World War. 
In Germany, the Carnival season begins at 11:11 on November 11 and people traditionally eat Berliner Pfannkuchen (similar to doughnuts but without a hole) on this day.
November 11 is also Saint Martin's Day, which is celebrated by all children in Germany as "Laternenfest", the party of the lanterns.
If you happen to be out on the streets just after dusk on Saint Martin's Day, you will most likely encounter one or more processions of children carrying lanterns and singing Saint Martin songs. 
However, if you're at work or live in a neighbourhood with very few children, you will hardly notice. It was only when I moved to Berlin (and to an area full of children) that I first saw a procession of lanterns.
If you're a child growing up in Germany the party of the lanterns is one of the highlights of the year. The lanterns are prepared days or weeks in advance at nursery or school and the children practise signing the typical lantern songs with their teachers. On the actual day, children, parents and teachers gather outside nursery or school and together they walk and sing. At the end of the procession there is usually a party with food and drinks. In some cases there is also a bonfire. On these cold and dark autumnal nights, the lanterns bring much needed light and warmth.

We don't need more walls

It was November the 9th 2009. People, leaders and celebrities from all over the world had gathered in the German capital to mark the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin wall. I had just moved to Berlin and was delighted to be able to participate in the celebrations by the Brandenburg Gate. It was a cold night, it was raining, but we were all excited to witness this historical moment.

One of the leaders who gave a speech about the importance of the fall of physical and mental walls was US Secretary of State Hillary Clinton. 

How sad and ironic that exactly seven years later Hillary Clinton should lose the US presidential election to a man who has promised to erect a wall on the border between the United States and Mexico (amongst many over outrageous proposals).

Former UK Prime Minister Gordon Brown was also in Berlin for the 20th anniversary of the fall of the wall and spoke of one united Europe. Seven years later Brexit happened.

If there is one place on earth that knows the devastating effects of a wall this is Berlin, the city I live in and a city that was divided for almost 30 years.

When people worldwide choose to build more walls, more barriers, more fences both physical and psychological, something has clearly gone wrong.    

Io parlo Deutsch

 Growing up with three languages part 2

I have recently read some interesting articles and studies about bilinguals, but I have found very little on trilinguals.

When I was a child and teenager (back in the 80's and 90's) being bilingual was not that common. I remember being on a school trip and phoning home from a telephone box, with my Italian class mates listening in fascination as I spoke English to my Mum. What was normal to me was special for most of them.
These days being bilingual is not such a big deal, but being trilingual still is.
I know a few children being raised with three languages and my son is one of them. As with most parenting issues, I tend to ignore the advice I don't agree with and follow my own instincts. In this case my instinct told me that we should try to raise little one with three languages right from birth.
His first words were a mixture of German, Italian and English and by a very early age he could already distinguish between the three languages. When he was two years old and started constructing actual sentences, there was a prevalence of German, which is the language of the country we live in. But whenever we spent some time in Italy or England, his vocabulary would suddenly expand and he would become more confident in the other two languages.
By the age of three, Leo's Italian was at the same level as his German (especially after spending several weeks in Italy over the summer holidays), but his English mainly consisted of simple "yes" and "no" answers and some basic words. 
During the past year, he has often surprised us with his growing understanding of English sentences. Before he turned four he could follow most of what we were saying in English and watch Peppa Pig or Thomas the Tank Engine in English without any problems. Then around his fourth birthday and after spending time in Italy with his Italian and English family, we had a breakthrough: little one suddenly started speaking English, constructing full sentence and using different tenses.
"That was amazing!"
"We are going to the airport."
"The bridge collapsed." 
"When Henry arrived, Thomas left."
"Thank you for flying Lufthansa, on time!"
Now not only does he speak English, but he can switch from English to German and/or Italian and back without any trouble.
He knows exactly which language to use depending on the country, the person, the book or the character of the story. For example, if he is playing with Thomas the Tank Engine, then he only speaks English. If he is a pilot talking to the manager at Frankfurt airport, he speaks German. If he has to explain something to me he switches to Italian.
Sometimes he mixes words from different languages or he adds "en" to an Italian word to make the German equivalent or "o" to an English word to make the Italian equivalent.
For example: "Der bridge ist schon damaged" -->German & English
"In dieser Direzionen" ("direzionen" from the Italian direzione) -->German
"Ora metto il Deckel e poi squeezo il dentrificio" ("squeezo" from the English squeeze) --> Italian and German
As with "squeezo", the results are often hilarious.

Berliners (with German nationality) have voted

Berlin residents (including EU nationals) went to the polls yesterday, with a striking difference: German nationals were given three ballot papers, while EU nationals were given only one. According to Council Directive 94/80/EC of 19 December 1994, "EU citizens may vote or stand as candidates in municipal elections in any EU country in which they live".
In Berlin, this means that EU nationals can only vote in the most local of local elections: the "Bezirksverordnetenversammlung" (one of those lovely never-ending German words) or in simpler words the borough assembly elections.
EU nationals living in Berlin are not eligible to vote in the elections that really matter: the "Abgeordnetenhaus" (the Berlin parliament so to speak).
As someone who has lived in Berlin for many years and is not planning to move any time soon, I am extremely interested in the election results, as they will have an impact on my life and on my family's life. Unfortunately, I would have preferred an active role, rather than that of spectator or accompanier. While I could only vote in the borough (or district) elections, my husband and practically every one else around me could also vote in the Berlin parliament elections.
Why? This is my city as much as theirs.
Considering that Berlin is an international city, you would think that everyone's vote would count, not just the votes of German nationals. This city wouldn't be the same without the contributions of the thousands of non-German nationals that live here. Just thinking in terms of food, there wouldn't be much else on the menu except for Currywurst, Bulette (meatballs) or Eisbein (pork knuckle) if it wasn't for the expats.
In terms of the actual results, what is particularly interesting about the Berlin elections is the geography, which can be summarised as: West Berlin has voted CDU (centre right), central Berlin has voted SPD (centre left) and Grüne (green party), East Berlin has voted Linke (left) and far East Berlin has voted the right-wing, anti-immigration, populist party AfD (Alternative für Deutschland), a sort of UKIP.
As everywhere else in Europe, the traditional parties, in this case the SPD and CDU, have lost ground, while the populist parties are gaining voters. The Pirates, meanwhile, have disappeared from the radar.
The rise of the AfD is extremely worrying. If this party can win 14% in Berlin, what will happen in the rest of the country?
Here's some food for thought: if all Berlin residents (non just the ones with a German passport) had been allowed a vote, perhaps the AfD might not have won so many seats in the Berlin parliament.

Live like a Berlin hipster

If you are someone with a serious job, long working hours and real deadlines, adjusting to the Berlin lifestyle may appear rather daunting. You will be surprised to see that everywhere around you are artists and creative people, while men and women in suits are nowhere to be seen (except for some parts of Mitte or the posher districts of Charlottenburg and Zehlendorf). You will wonder at how everyone in Berlin has so much time to hang around cafes by day and Kneipen (pubs/bars) by night. The concept of "working only when the weather is bad" will seem rather alien to you at first, but very gradually you will get used to breakfast at 3pm and clubbing on a Sunday morning (having been up all night). You will need patience, because it will take time, but you too can become a Berlin hipster.

To check whether you have truly made it into the Berlin hipster-sphere, take the test below.   

1) Do you have a proper job?

2) Do you have a project?

3) Are you thinking about your own start-up?

4) Do you start the day with a flat white/cappuccino/galao exclusively prepared by your trustworthy barista?

5) Do you carry around a tote bag with an anti-establishment slogan?

6) Do you wear trendy glasses and/or sunglasses?

7) Do you ride a stylish, retro racing bike?

8) Do you shop local, organic, vegan and fairtrade?

9) Do you pay entrance fees to get into clubs and other venues?

10) Do you live in Neukölln?

If  you have answered no to questions 1) and 9) and yes to the remaining eight questions, congratulations: you are a true Berlin hipster!

If you've never had a galao, you need to spend more time in cafes serving Portuguese specialities.

If you haven't made it onto the guest list yet, i.e. you still pay entrance fees, you haven't met the right people. 

If you've not heard of goji berries, head out to your local, organic, vegan grocery shop right now.

If you have no idea what I'm talking about, check out these places:

Bonanza Coffee Heroes, Oderberger Strasse, Prenzlauer Berg - now also in Kreuzberg

Galao a Pastelaria, Weinsbergweg, Mitte
Nothaft Seidel, Schönhauser Allee, Prenzlauer Berg - now also in Neukölln

Veganz supermarkets in Prenzlauer Berg, Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg 
Club der Visionäre, Puschkinallee, Treptow 

Or move to Neukölln.

Mogwai Play Atomic at Admiralspalast

Mogwai Play Atomic

30.08.2016 Admiralspalast Berlin

Judging by the crowd gathered outside the Admiralspalast on a calm Tuesday evening for the German premiere of Mogwai Play Atomic, two things were clear:

a) it was an event not to be missed and

b) there was no way it would start on time.

Thirty minutes after the scheduled “doors open” time, the queue stretched all the way along Friedrichstrasse to the edge of the river Spree, while amused waiters and passers-by wondered what on earth was going on. The waitress at the Café Madrid had never seen a queue like that outside the restaurant.

Once inside, there were more queues for the toilets, but the most impressive one was for the drinks. As the bar queue got longer and ticket-holders still kept streaming in through the main doors, an usher spoke in an agitated tone into his walkie-talkie: "We have run out of cold beer!". Clearly, this was not your typical evening at the Admiralspalast, a rather grand 1920s Art Deco theatre, which normally hosts more mainstream events. As if by magic, a crate of cold beer materialised within five minutes and was delivered to a relieved barman.

As the venue finally filled up, the lights were dimmed and Mogwai quietly settled on stage, while the projection of the film began.
The documentary itself was a collection of powerful images based on the atomic theme. The majority focused on the deadly aspects of nuclear energy: the atomic bomb on Hiroshima and its horrific impact on the land and its inhabitants, as well as the devastating effects of Chernobyl and Fukushima. There was also interesting footage of the anti nuclear movement, the Cold War, as well as instructions to the British population on how to prepare in the event of an atomic bomb. Towards the end there were some references to the more hopeful and positive applications, such as nuclear medicine. 

Mogwai’s music entirely captured the mood of the film and reflected both the horrors and the more hopeful and beautiful moments.  The live music experience made the emotions generated by the images on screen all the more powerful.  As the film came to a conclusion, the sounds continued to propagate from the amps and one by one the musicians left the stage. The lights came back on, while a satisfied crowd applauded warmly.

Mogwai’s live performance of their soundtrack to Mark Cousins’s documentary Atomic: Living in Dread and Promise was part of the Pop-Kultur festival.

Special thanks to Nils for the photographic contribution 
http://www.nilswittephotography.de/

Post-Brexit family reunion

Once again our Anglo-Italian-German family (with Austrian and Swedish connections) was reunited. The location was a 1950's villa with stunning views over Lake Garda and the special occasion was my parents' 40th wedding anniversary.

As might be expected, Brexit was one of our main topics of conversation after "Where is the best pizzeria?", "Where is Leo hiding now?" and "Have they emptied the bin/taken away the rubbish?" (more on recycling later). My Gran's favourite topic of conversation as always was Andy Murray, followed by Brexit.

I've heard about people falling out with other family members, friends and colleagues over Brexit, but in our family we all agree on two things:

1) The referendum was a bad idea from the start.
2) Brexit doesn't mean Brexit.

As time goes on and no clarity emerges, there is a possibility that Brexit can still be avoided, at least we hope so. After all, there is a legal argument that the government is not constitutionally entitled to trigger article 50 without approval from parliament. 

So far, nothing has really changed in our family, except for the fact that the pound has lost value against the euro, so holidays in Italy and Germany are now more expensive for our UK based members. 

Even the waiter serving us "coppe gelato" in the village of Montinelle couldn't resist a political observation: "Britain has never been the same since Margaret Thatcher left". Eyebrows were raised, coughing sounds were made and giggles were stifled, but I'm not sure the waiter noticed.

The truth is nobody really knows what will happen. It's all a giant mess (or an Eaton Mess) and it will take years to sort out.

It's even worse than sorting out the rubbish in Manerba del Garda. After one week most of us (except for me, as I did a crash course on recycling on the first day) still didn't know where to throw the serviettes or the tea bags away!

Rubbish collection is a serious and complicated business. Each day of the week, between 8pm and 4am, your rubbish needs to be left outside your house or taken to the nearest street corner. Monday is organic waste (biodegradable bags in brown bin) and other rubbish (black bags no bin), Tuesday is paper (in paper bags or cardboard boxes only, no bin), Wednesday is organic waste again, Thursday is glass and metal (blue bin only, no bags), Fridays is plastic (transparent bags no bin). 

Confused?

Or you could do as my uncle suggested: dump everything into the bins on the beach, which is kind of how I feel about the Brexit ballot papers.

Meanwhile we are all back in our respective countries of Italy, Germany and the UK, except for my brother who's currently on a business trip in India.  

Looking forward to the next European reunion...

Currywurst in Berlin... lobster in Paris

When Theresa May met Angela Merkel in Berlin on Wednesday, Bio-Currywurst was probably not on the menu (or at least one would hope so). 
In a pre-dinner press conference, the German Chancellor agreed with the British Prime Minister that more time is needed before Article 50 of the Lisbon treaty can be triggered. She also did not dismiss the possibility of a deal that combines free trade with controls on immigration. However, Angela Merkel also added that there will be no negotiations until Article 50 has been invoked.


Before setting off on her EU travels, Theresa May announced through a spokesperson that the UK is giving up its planned presidency of the European Council (due to start in July 2017) to focus on Brexit negotiations. The decision was reached in a phone call between Theresa May and Donald Tusk, the President of the EU Council.

 

When Theresa May met François Hollande the following evening in Paris, the French President was not quite so accommodating. Although he did recognise that the UK needs more time before it can trigger Article 50, he was very clear about France's position on free trade. If the UK wants access to the single market it cannot put immigration controls on EU citizens, i.e. free trade cannot be granted without free movement of people.
In case you are wondering what was on the menu in Paris: lobster salad as a starter, veal with spinach as a main course, vanilla mousse with strawberries and cheese for dessert. Bon appétit!