Carnival in Berlin: Pfannkuchen time

If you live in Berlin you might not even realise that it is Carnival time. Unlike other German cities like Cologne or Mainz, Berlin does not have have a strong Carnival vibe. I was rather surprised therefore to discover that Berlin has in fact an old Carnival tradition, which is relatively unknown. Berlin's Karneval dates back to the 15th century, when the first Carnival parades were introduced by migrants from Lusatia. The Prussian kings continued the Carnival tradition by celebrating with masked balls. Then when the Rhineland became part of Prussia in 1815, migrants from this region brought their Carnival traditions with them: the first Rhineland Carnival clubs in Berlin were founded in 1870.

Nowadays, one of the few signs that it is indeed Carnival is the notices in bakeries advising you to order your Pfannkuchen. In other parts of Germany these pastries are actually called Berliner, but in Berlin they are called Pfannkuchen and are similar to doughnuts but without a hole. They are usually filled with plum jam or plum puree (Pflaumenmus) and are topped with icing or sprinkled icing sugar. They are traditionally eaten on Shrove Monday and Shrove Tuesday.

The other telling sign is the Carnival costumes in toyshops. With a few exceptions, Carnival in Berlin is mostly an occasion for children to dress up and have fun. 

There is actually a Carnival parade (Faschingszug, which has just celebrated its 15th birthday) through City-West, along Kurfürstendamm (or Ku'damm as it is called by Berliners) and ending up at Wittenbergplatz, but 
I certainly would not suggest coming to Berlin for the Carnival atmosphere.

For the real Carnival party, however, I would recommend waiting until the spring for the Karneval der Kulturen (literally Carnival of Cultures) in Kreuzberg. It is a four day street festival that celebrates Berlin's diversity. It is very international, loud and colourful. The street parade will take place on 4 June this year, so make a note in your diaries (or digital calendars).