Tuesday, 17 July 2018

People have the power - a visit to the Stasi headquarters in Berlin-Lichtenberg



The Wall is one of the most fascinating subjects for visitors and newcomers to Berlin, as you can probably tell by the crowds gathered around the main tourist sights. However, there is one place that seems to be off the tourist radar, perhaps because of its location in not-so-glamorous Lichtenberg. It is the complex of the Stasi headquarters and archives, tucked away behind busy Frankurfter Allee, just outside the underground station of Magdalenenstrasse.   

When I went on a Monday morning in mid-July there were very few people about, although the two local workmen walking past were astonished to see that “Alle diese Leute wollen zum Stasimuseum?!?” (All these people want to go to the Stasi Museum?!?”) They obviously don’t spend much time around Checkpoint Charlie, which by the way looks more like Disneyland these days.

If you want an authentic experience of the GDR (forget the Trabi Safari and the DDR Museum, they’re for Ostalgics, i.e. nostalgics about East Germany), get on the U5 or walk 10 minutes from Frankfurter Allee station. There you will be reminded about how brutal and repressive the East German regime actually was and how the Stasi (the official state security service of the GDR) spied on the East German population.

If the weather is too good and you don’t feel like going inside the building or if you don’t want to pay the €6 entrance fee (€4.50 reduced), make sure you spend some time looking at the free open-air exhibition called “Revolution and the Fall of the Wall”.  It is dedicated to the history of the Peaceful Revolution (Friedliche Revolution in German) that eventually led to the fall of the Wall. The bilingual (German/English) exhibition focuses on the brave citizens who stood up to the communist dictatorship and offers an uplifting message about the strength of people power.

One of my favourite slogans is from a major demonstration at Alexander Platz on 4 November 1989 (the Wall fell on the evening of 9 November after an international press conference about new travel regulations): "Stop lying once and for all! The change came from the people not from the SED party!"  


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